May 14, 2013
Mile 210
20 miles today

Our little group ended up sprinkled up and down, an elongated arm connected to Mt. San Jacinto, which stretched for miles. I slept alone at Mile 191 in a strong wind. The glow of Los Angeles looked like an out of control fire. My last thoughts were of two airplanes passing so close that one blotted out the other for a brief second.

Had a look at the map first thing in the morning. The trail dropped thousands of feed to the 10 Freeway. A side note read that it was but four miles to the next water stop on the wings of a crow. Unfortunately human would need to walk 15 miles to reach that same spot. I had 2.5 liters of water. Figured that was enough for a fan of deserts. I walked through thick pines with a goal of creosote bushes.

Shared the trail for a while with Captain. A one-time garbage boat driver on Catalina Island turned editor at Backpacker Magazine. She commented that she was a snake magnet, having seen five rattlers to date. Despite my best efforts I was yet a rattlesnake virgin, which I explained and then quite confidently stated that it was a little late in the day for rattle snakes to be out anyway. Immediately, BAM! A Western Diamondback Rattlesnake exploded next to my leg. I played into the Tijuana two-step waiting for my excited brain to calm down and inform me where the snake was. LEFT! I tangoed right. The snake exited stage left. “Told you,” she said. My dignity returned. Thirty yards later, BAM! This time a baby speckled rattlesnake in a bush. OK. Forty yards and, oh hell, another Speckled crossing the path. Now it was old hat. Didn’t even flinch when a Red Racer snake shot across my bow fifty yards on. (The Red Racers are the fastest snakes in North America at a shocking 5 mph.) Never have I seen such a concentration of snakes on such a hot day. My relief was shameful when I soon after split with Captain, but it did make it safe to proceed. Nor did I see another snake.

The desert was endless, shade rare and the temp around 105 degrees. Obviously, the trail designer was paid by the mile, because their switchbacks meandered without descent. Finally arrived at a shadeless tap after 5 hours of walking. Was able to rehydrate the cotton balls in my mouth and contemplate the 5 miles remaining. Orbit and Doc had been waiting and we took off together for a 5-mile jaunt across the frying pan. The target being the fleeing railroad bridge under the 10 Freeway.

Arrived, once over easy, to ice cold Mountain Dew left by a trail angel and trains passing overhead. The trains were double stacked, carrying the products of Chine to the end of their 1200-mile distribution.

One more mile through the wind, brought us to Ziggy and Bear’s backyard, trail angels who welcome hikers with a complete embrace. In order: a foot bath, followed by a shower, followed by a Burger King run, topped with an ice cream social and a bed on Arab carpets under the stars. Salaam Alaikum.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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