Mile 264
28 miles today
Woke up well and started toward Big Bear Lake. Climbed out of the desert and back into the pines completing a process begun around Mt. San Jacinto many thousands of feet ago. Was in a very good mood and began to wonder why I liked this trail so much in comparison to others. The answer was simple. Other trails begin and end in a measurable period of time. While hiking there is always that nagging thought that in an hour or a day or even a couple of weeks, the end will be reached and you’ll have to go back to life.
The PCT, as least for someone calendar challenged like myself, has no end. Finishing, so many months away, can’t be digested. Which to me, makes it much more than a trail. It elevated the trail to a way of life. A walking road if you will, the finish of no concern. Every day one gets up and moves down the road. Nothing more, Nothing less. Others are doing the same. All footprints point north. Later in the year, a minority of hikers will start at Canada and move south. Like two tides, eventually they will meet. There will be some confusion and then footprints everywhere will reverse direction, to await the next hiking season.
Skeletons
At some point I reined in and took a short nap. Awoke covered in ants. They didn’t seem interested in biting, so I endured for a little while, a curious sensation, but not pleasant.
First bear attack on trail
Had lunch with Slack, Red Beard and Orbit in an abandoned log cabin while nursing my first injury. I had stepped on a rock with my left foot. It promptly flipped up and its sharp edge took a chunk out of my swinging right big toe.
Scars on the land from fire and mining
The cabin was covered in graffiti that is a sad reflection on the human state. Still, I enjoyed the graffiti at Abu Simbel in Egypt. There, Napoleon’s soldiers had spelled out their homesickness on the ceiling of the temple using candle smoke. So I guess there is even hope for graffiti and perhaps the human condition too.
The pace was quick and the gentle downslope into Big Bear was forgiving. The miles flashed by. Some days you walk to think, some days to see and some days to move. Today was the later. Our only speed bumps were the outstanding supply caches left by local businesses to entice hikers. A five star cache reviewed by various rating agencies had reclining lazy boys, chilled carrots and Tiki punch. Big bear Hostel has style.
Reunited lovers
We pulled up two miles before the hitchhiking point into Big Bear, to save on accommodation. Put up camp amongst some windswept Pines where I learned a new trick from Slack. Pinesap burns at an amazing intensity. He said, “try it out.” The couscous was presentable in record time, the night was cold and the wind blew hard. But all was warm under my quilt, NPR faded into dreams and the night took over.
Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde
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