June 5, 2013
22 miles
Mile 630

Today was dominated by heat, the kind that oppresses one’s enthusiasm. The path started at altitude but freefell into the desert below. Two water caches were located at mile 615 and 630. Translated into hiking, this meant walking seven miles to drink up once again. The ever-present competition of desire that every backpacker must resolve: Thirst vs. weight being the critical decision of the day. Too much water will break your back. Too little water will break your mother’s heart.

All day the temperature rose. For whatever reason, there seemed to be a large body of hikers clumped together on this particular day. I was able to observe various heat coping strategies which seemed to come down into one of two camps. Hole up in the shade and wait for the heat to pass or keep moving toward the water source. The vast majority of hikers fell into the former. Thus every large Joshua tree, which provides the only available shade, in this neck of the desert, seemed to house a waiting hiker. Personally, I fall into the later, as I usually go light on water, I really have no choice. I have to keep moving, but I don’t mind it. Moving across the desert, a hostile sun, under hat, water in hand, racing against time can bring a sense of contentment and self-containment. Arrivals confirm your calculation of thirst to weight. Beats TV anyway.

As I neared the end of the day, I found myself descending along a very long ridge. The sun continued its pounding. Suddenly the lights were dimmed. Curious, I looked up and saw an honest to God small cloud. My personal sunshade. It was also making its way toward Canada along the same path I was. Immediately, I felt a deep love. I quickened my pact to stay under my benefactor. The wind strengthened its push. Soon I found myself in the ridiculous position of running across the face of a mountain trying to catch a black circle. Just as I was about to repossess my love, she was murdered by the sun. Shakespeare would have captured my grief well.

Fell asleep, far from any artificial light, watching the big screen for shooting stars.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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