June 6, 2013
20 miles
Mile 650
Early climb
Opened my eyes to the immediate destination, a 1,500-foot climb to the top of a peak. Not much light as 4:45 a.m. is still in the grip of night, but enough to get going, the coolness providing a quick push to the summit. Once on the crest, the path turned humanitarian and rolled along pleasantly through pine forests that scented the path in a way air freshener companies could only dream of.
The Oracle
The mood, as it has been on every day of the walk to date, was one of low-grade euphoria. All was clicking physically and mentally. The body had its job to do but the mind was free to wander off trail. Endorphins released as needed. Sights appeared at three mph, which provides a surplus of time to digest them. Distractions are limited to only those that you can create. Minor adjustments to pace manufacture opportunities to socialize or alone time. It’s just a great way to go about your day. Walk down the trail, nothing else. How can anybody get irritated doing that?
Yogi trail magic kitchen
An ever-increasing descent brought me to Walker Pass. Rumors of a food spread laid out quickened the pace. Known in the vernacular as trail magic, some people just have nothing to do other than walk away from their normal lives, drive into the mountain and feed a bunch of hungry hikers. Cue my applause. Au-natural hiker was there, wearing a flash blue mini that did his legs justice. Now known as Coppertone, he was as compassionate as ever. Also there was Yogi, a genuine trail celebrity, who had authored a well-known guidebook to the PCT, as well as a number of others. The order upon arrival, “Eat and drink till you no longer can,” which I did for the next six hours. When the last of the spaghetti ran out, I still could, so off we went on our own and made Pad Thai. The ingredients were scrounged, none of them Thai, but as I closed my eyes, I could see the streets of Bangkok.
So ended a fine day that began gazing at a summit and ended as I fell asleep on the sand at Kho Phangan Beach. Kop Khun Krap.
Sleeping in Thailand.
Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde
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Steven,
I had the pleasure of running into your amazing niece Madi, and she with great pride told me about your adventure and encouraged me to get on-line to read your stories. It took me a few days to catch up with them since you where well into your month of travel. I am pleased to see that your in good spirit and your body is holding up. I am looking forward to reading about your PCT adventures and my thoughts are with you. When you get to BC let me know I have a bottle of wine with your name on it. Big J
P.S. If you remember that is how you started every letter and postcard that you sent me on your Africa adventure. Thought it may be nice to have my own PCT nickname, so I am going with Big J.
Hey big J, wow Africa was a long time ago. Thanks for remembering it. A bottle of wine sounds awfully fine right now. I’ll look forward to it.