June 7, 2013
30 miles today
Mile 680

Awoke back in California to the shout of pancakes. Ate eight. Had to let out the hip belt yet again. Am five pounds over my starting weight of 193. While everyone around me continues to lose weight I continue my march to obesity. Here is my list of excuses, what do you think? I’m 49 so my metabolism is slower. I’m a runner, so walking is not physically demanding and thus my body is not burning that many calories. Couscous and oatmeal, my dinner and breakfast every day, are incredibly fattening. I eat like a starved hog every time I’m in town. Or my desert body is in insulation panic about heading into the snow of the High Sierras. The whole subject is curious.

Learned about a new lottery system for rafting the Grand Canyon on a private river trip, from a hiker named Bagpipe. Note to future.

Left camp heavily loaded internally and externally. Carrying the full complement of 3.5 liters of water as there are springs in five and nineteen miles respectively. Unfortunately, for my spine, the first spring glows with uranium. Which makes it even more unattractive than the aptly named “Dirty Diaper Spring” I passed yesterday. The climb from Walker Pass, named for Senor Walker, an early 1800’s explorer who stumbled upon it, was long, hot, and stunning. Made my way past other pancake laden hikers who I had so recently had the pleasure of their company. Doc, who is supercharged by pancakes and has a hike total of 54, took off never to be seen again.

Arrived at the spring after 19 miles ready for a cocktail. Skipped filtering and drank straight. At the spring for the soon to be famous Battle Royale of PCT 2013 were Toots Mcgoots. Orbit, Slack and Red Beard. Lunches were spread. A relax started. Commotion. A young male bear cub joined the party, he being hungrier than us. Hikers scattered. Smokey headed straight for Slack’s pack and began to tear into it. I yelled at him and he charged me. In my defense I heroically fell on my ass. That panicked Smokey and he fled up the tree two feet in front of me. Karma and Halfway showed up, the latter just missed being hit by a shit bomb while passing under the tree.

A quick strategy session was concluded. Some would watch for Mama bear, whose potential arrival would escalate the situation dangerously. Others would fill water bottles. And the rest would stand guard with hiking poles. Then we would retreat as quickly as possible. But the withdrawal was impossible without water for the coming miles.

With our food packed away, and all of us up by the spring, Smokey came down from his lofty perch and renewed the assault. Now Smokey probably weighed all of 70 lbs, but when he charges and you see the length of his nails up close, one feels the odds are in his favor. The hiking poles and shouts in various languages, however seemed to even things up. Smokey’s repeated charges were all repulsed and we were able to escape with no casualties. Though one of Toot’s socks was half eaten. We placed a note on the trail warning other hikers of the standoff to come and returned to the climb through the Animal Kingdom.

After Smokey we passed deer, rabbits, squirrels and snakes, including a large Western Diamondback just off the path. It was a wonderful day that couldn’t get better until it did.

After 30 dusty miles some angelic soul left a case of black stout cooling in a stream at our finishing point. Even begin to try and imagine that first meeting of stout and windpipe.

Good night Smokey.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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