June 8, 2013
22 miles today
Mile 702
Left camp intent on arriving and Kennedy Meadows, which is the gateway to the High Sierras. Most hikers are happy to leave the desert and head into the mountains, but I for one will miss her. The desert can be an oppressor if you reject or disdain her. But if you embrace her, she is an avid and faithful lover who will always reward your senses. As she did, yet again, this time.
Red Beard’s breakfast
Signed the trail register, at the start of the hike, by writing a note to a fellow hiker behind me. I questioned the speed of his hike and insulted his statehood. Trail registers act as a bush telegraph. You can leave message for those behind you and inform yourself about those in front of you. It gives the Internet a run for its money.
The first spring was located in the ruins of an old mining camp. The water smelled of sulfur, but the Gatorade vendor was not in residence so alternatives were nil. As we filtered, Slack sat down next to a small bush. This annoyed the rattlesnake in residence. Luckily the snake decided to move on rather than display his displeasure by putting the nip on Slack. ‘Twas a close call though.
Climbed up to a pass and then headed downhill for one last visit to the desert. Passed through yet another big burn. The soil here is pure sand. After a fire, all that remains are leftover pine stalks. It ends up looking like the Sahara with worms coming up for air. I mulled over two rumors I had heard. One, that after our bear run-in, yet more bears had shown up. Two, that the Powerhouse fire would be contained on June 10, after scorching 50 square miles. Forests seem to have a hard time of it here.
Arrived, after 17 miles of hot trek, at the Kern River. A beaver had dammed the river creating a post-card swimming hole. Accomplished bathing and laundry with one jump. Doc reappeared with six liters of Gatorade that he had back humped five miles from Kennedy Meadows, once again demonstrating his dedication to the needs of his patients. A pool party ensued.
Kern River meets beaver dam
And then to Kennedy Meadows where I opened a tab at the General Store and picked up various packages. The main package included a bear vault to store food in, new shoes, and an ice axe and crampons. Not enough snow this year to justify the axe and crampons, so they’re headed back. But I think I’ll hold on to the bear vault due to recent company.
Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde
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