June 9, 2013
14 miles today
Mile 716
Kennedy Meadows is a fly-catcher, sticky tape kind of place. Some hikers had been there for over a week. With only 200 residents, services were limited, but what was there was directed at hikers and extending their stay. All you can eat options abounded. Having an open tab at the General Store allowed purchasing on impulse without pain. A large deck encouraged loafing. And, finally, packs engorged with heavy bear vaults and multiple days of food discouraged a return to the trail. Lethargy crept.
Awoke on a patch of dirt behind the General Store, knocked a large scorpion out of my shoe (they seem to have an affinity for me) and completed my morning adulations. Went down to the deck to wait for the sun and all you can eat pancakes. The crowd, a mix of locals and hikers was large and the wait long. By the time I had finished my pancakes it was time for a hamburger lunch and a beer. Time was abusive and our departure began its failure. Around two we rallied, closed our painful tabs and made a run for it. Four of us made it out. Doc, who was right behind me, got sucked back into the vortex and has not been seen since.
Welcome to the high Sierras
Climbed to a swimming hole for a last dip before a 2,000 ft ascent into the Sierras. While everyone was in swimming I hid two perfume strips in Orbit’s pack that I had torn from a Vanity Fair. Being completely opposed to all convention it was a cruel trick to play on her. The smell of the unwashed does not offend, but the stench of perfume turns her stomach. Her laughs of disgust when she finally discovered both strips rang through the mountain air.
Self-discovery is part of the trail. As I hiked a sudden flash of insight stopped me dead in my tracks. I backed up two steps and looked down and saw what my shoeprints looked like for the first time. Nice to recognize something that had been following me for over a month.
And then there it was. Over a rise, and a gigantic, majestic meadow reached up and grabbed all my senses at once. A door closed on the desert and opened on the mountains.
Big Sky
We were in the High Sierras at last.
Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde
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