June 13, 2013
25 miles
Mile 784
Sleep never arrived, but my little radio helped me pass the hours. First it was Christian radio and their grievances with the devil. Then a pointed critique by Noam Chomsky on the murder of Osama Bin Laden. And lots of average pop music. Finally the BBC with their dispassionate analysis of everything. Which is where I was at 4 AM when the door busted open and Pac Man announced, while standing on Red Beard, “The Pac Man is here and he is cold. Move over.” Followed by, “It stinks in here. I mean it really stinks in here.” I was too tired to explain to him that his head was in the methane cloud and that all he had to do was sit down. One by one climbers came in from the dark, drained by the cold. The night was over though the clock didn’t know it.
I waited in the methane infused warmth, and then rushed outside at the last minute, for the sunrise. Found a hole to slide down into so that the wind could only beat on my head. Exchanged Good-Mornings with the sun and took one last look around before escaping down hill. But first I paused to affectionately pat the walls of our shelter. Though climbers had been killed inside it by lightening strikes, I felt a deep affection for its efforts on my behalf.
Doing my best Allah Akbar
Looking down from Whitney
Submerged quickly to another world of sunny meadows and streams of honey. Reorganized, and took off for Forester Pass some twelve miles away. Forest Pass, at 13,200 feet, is the highest point on the actually PCT. Like all passes, its long slow work, a view, and quick fast fun. The real challenge of Forester though was psychological. Its V-shaped snow chute visible from many miles off, the question “I have to go there?” had plenty of time to deteriorate resolve. Which was already in short supply due to sleeplessness. As always though, stubbornness carried the day and the pass.
Night curtain going down
Sun coming up on Whitney
UB pointing to useless ice axe.
Whitney escape
Blast coming up Forester Pass
Though the backside trail was blocked by snow at several points, our descent into Kings Canyon was rapid. Arrived on flat ground spent and hungry. Dinner was a mysterious and vile green Vietnamese rice. Since I eat to reduce pack weight I choked it down, but I don’t recommended it, even to deserving enemies. Lights out at eight.
Green Vietnamese
Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde
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Steve, I am glad to hear of your successful dental work (We just returned from our Sierra travels). Again, meeting all of you and living vicariously through your hike has been extremely motivating. I look forward to each post and you can count on a donation to your very worthy cause. I am reliving memories of long ago reading of your adventure… I also appreciate your groups moral support of an eventual return to the PCT, although the trail really never departs from you (While 5 years may be reasonably, I am thinking 7 to be realistic as I just started a great new job. I can’t think of a better way than to spend my 60th birthday on the PCT!!!) I only wish I had air conditioning in the back of the camper for all of you, but all of you were great. Glad you had a good conversation piece with the Carlsbad Fire shirt. I pray all of you have a successful and healthy hike to Canada.
Wayne Hooper
Well then 60 it is. I believe that makes it an oral contract. Binding and enforceable by law. You are now officially committed. Got another ride from a firefighter yesterday. They are a top class of people. My condolences for the tragedy in Arizona. And thanks for taking the time to follow along.
Steve! So envious of what you’re seeing. Keep walking and snapping pics. Sending peace and energy your way. Thanks for the post!
hello bro! good to hear all is well. nice to see pic of mr. O; how is it he looks exactly the same? broke bread (well meat!) with carter in sao paulo and enjoyed the local scene then to rio, which we are loving! we encountered some of the protest and happened to be in the Parliament when they were happening. they had already broken all of the windows out there the week before, so we figured we were safe?…although the locals take the time to tell us not to be in the downtown area after dark, so as the dude says, we abide. mad-eye is a great traveler, you would be proud. mark and matilde say oi´. we are really having a great time, but i think of you often and am enjoying your blogs and sense of being present, which i too am finding makes one slow down and in my case, avoid being hit by a bus (i am at 2 near death experiences, but don~t tell mom…) we headed to argentina next. i love you brother and look forward to being together again whenever. happy trails 2u. xoxox gilman
Received and appreciated. At my advanced age I can use all the help I can get. Pura vida to you and Laura