Day 43 Icy swim in high mountain lake

Rose to the beckoning call of civilization. Answered because the bear vault was down to its last cliff bar.(between roughly mile 750 and 1000 Bear proof canisters are mandatory.) Everyone recognizes the necessity, everyone despises their weight and awkwardness. Thus the plan was to leave the PCT, climb over the reputedly lovely Kearsarge Pass to a trailhead and then hitch into Lonepine for resupply. And if the stars aligned a dentist.

Was a tad anxious about my new footwear as the hike started. The night before I had lost my footing in a stream and one shoe went into the drink. I cook dried the shoe next to the fire and accomplished both. As my attention wandered my insole cushioning melted. It’s aromatic bubbling finally alerted orbit. At least they are lighter now.

The pass met all of its advanced PR and even surpassed it. At the High Point one looked down on a slide of a valley that didn’t level out until the desert floor thousands of feet below. Great gray granite spires splotched with snow provided the edging. A series of navajo shaded lakes connected by cascading streams formed the floor. And groves of Pines gave it all texture. No amount of willpower could prevent a summer swim.

A lake at Kearsarge

A lake at Kearsarge


Summer swim in ice water

Summer swim in ice water


Did I describe it right?

Did I describe it right?


After 4 miles of descent we arrived at the trailhead. Warm root beer left by a trail angel was the cherry on top of the Kearsarge Pass. The wait was short for a ride. Wayne, a fire instructor, crammed us into the back of his pop up, Cabover camper and took us all the way to Bishop, where a dentist eagerly awaited my business.
Coming down Kearsage Pass

Coming down Kearsage Pass


The Motel 6 was incredibly hip, along the lines of a Soho apartment. The calories consumed voluminous and rich. My mouth returned to full Chomper status. Gear supply stores galore. A bakery named Schats. And Rustys, a bar full of pool, pinball, margaritas and dancers searching for the rhythm, any rhythm of 80s rock. All overlaid by the incantations of a local rodeo and it’s excited announcer. What more could you ask a town? Kisses Bishop

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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