Camping next to a river is sometimes a good idea, last night was the other part. By the time I left the fire micro environment, condensation had soaked my sleeping bag. So I set up my tent in the dark and crawled into it to escape the wet. Awoke to ice crystals.
The objective today ambitious. Cross Mather Pass, descend the golden staircase, cross the everlasting Muir Pass, fly down the other side and camp at Wanda Lake. We almost made it, but as always that really wasn’t the point.
Myself, and the ice crystals waited for the warmth of the sun to make its way down the valley wall. Thus the start was late at around 830. Climbed, and quickly arrived in a mammoth amphitheater above the tree line. From my low point a spin showed my eyes mountains in every direction. I kept my attention alert as yesterday Red Beard had seen a wolf at about this same altitude.
The path up to Mather pass was well laid out and not a grind at all. From the High Point the Valleyview north was a showstopper. Sheer grey walls poured cascades of spilled milk down to the pined carpets that floored the valley bottom. This water in turn filled lakes that would overflow by waterfall to the next lower brother lake. I spent much of the day following along listening to their music. The race of water downhill always beating me. Even when we parachuted down the golden staircase the water was speedier in descent.
At The bottom of the valley of the Palisades I took a dogleg right for the valley of the Kings. Now I was moving uphill against the current of water, altitude and my own limitations. The pass lived up to its reputation as a hard-hard pass to reach. Again and again what appeared to be the pass was just a trick played on your certainty. I climbed out of forest, and into stunted trees, then shrubs, to grasslands and finally just rock and snow. Each successive bowl holding yet another lake and the promise of more climbing ahead. It felt like a ladder that might not have a destination.
The day grew late and the stomach empty. Finally, climbing over a snowbank at 7 p.m., I spotted a hive-shaped pile of rocks that spoke of man-made. This was the John Muir hut built in 1930 by the Sierra Club. It resembled the charcoal kilns of death Valley. The hives insulating qualities proved to charismatic and the night was passed listening to the wind.
Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde
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Hey Steve, Love the blog. Thinking of you as Blake and I went to the O’s game Sunday night and watched the O’s sweep the Yankees. Wish you could have been there. O’s hit three homers (Chris Davis his league leading 31st and Manny Machado his league leading 32nd double) and they won 4-2. The fever has returned to Baltimore and you would have enjoyed it. I know Blake did. Carry on, and keep up the blogging. …..Kisses, Brian
Thanks brother, maybe this is our year. My hiking friends always give me grief because every time I get to civilization I ask Siri did the Orioles win? Put a small wager at a casino on them to win the American League and World Series perhaps I’ll finally collect. Miss you.
When a celebrity comes from the Great White North, no Canadian can resist pointing it out to non-Canadians who might be within earshot.
When Pamela Anderson, Paul Anka, Jim Carrey, Leonard Cohen, Keanu Reeves, Ryan Gosling, Ryan Reynolds, William Shatner, Linda Evangelista or Dan Aykroyd come up in conversation, you’ll see us fidget and grow visibly agitated till we have a chance to blurt out “Did you know he/she is from Canada!?”
Saw this in a post today…thought you would get a chuckle. Happy Birthday Miko….our guest Canadian. Take Care Steve.
I think you forgot to include Michelle Obama who I believe is possibly from Newfoundland. Great to hear from you And I hope all is going very very well. Take care of yourself.
No way to describe it — but WOW what beauty!! Thinking of you and hoping you are staying cool as we battle 115-117 here in the desert!!
Hey maribeth, glad you’re following along. Heatisn’t bad here although I think I drank about 3 gallons of water on the trail the other day. Problem here is thunderstorms but that’s another issue altogether my best to Ivan and the family.