June 20. 2013
27 miles today
892 miles total

As the bear failed to make a return engagement I was able to sleep in. My start slowed further by the fact that Orbit had built a fire. Tearing oneself away from a warm fire on a cold morning to climb a pass requires a buildup of willpower that needs time. Even tried hot oatmeal, but change can be dangerous. Will stay with my precedent of 48 days of cold oatmeal.

Having left the aptly named valley of evolution I climbed Selden Pass. Sometimes the biorhythms are humming and today was one of those days. I climbed alone and make good time. The path wound upward twisting with the course of the water that carved the valley, the glaciers that formed it long departed. I would force myself to stop often and absorb the beauty around, especially the waterfalls, but a curious physiological sensation occurs every time I stop. Blood seems to collect in the legs making re-hiking difficult for a couple of minutes. It is easier to simply maintain a paced chug up the hill. I crested the pass and had it to myself, a twirl of vision and then, what to do but go down.

The valley down-flowed with lakes and waterfalls. Bookcasing the water were massive granite slabs that kept sunrises late and sunsets early. The lower I went, the more dramatic it became. Adjectives begin to fail. As they say 1000 words and photos wouldn’t begin to capture it. Take a hike there and see for yourselves.

Altitude called and I received a lashing of switchbacks. Then an unusual section that traversed a high, flat plain through thick pine forest. The path was straight and direct, which is very unlike the PCT. It reminded me of the Appalachian Trail. The hiking was soft and smooth. I grew complacent. The hammer blow was sudden and brutal. The High plains ended and a freefall of 100 switchbacks ensued. At the bottom, just add water to knee cartilage and you have Jell-O for lunch.

On the way down, I ran into Story Time, the vanguard of the southbound stone boners, a group of individuals who occasionally skip ahead and return south dispensing medical agriculture to all those in need. The trail swims with hiking characters.

Lunch is what I did at the bottom. Found a nice boulder in the lee of a bridge and stuffed my face to the background of crashing water. The fact that I had planned my food well for seven days, i.e. exactly what I needed with no leftovers or shortages, brought me pleasure. The biting no see ums did not.

Post lunch was yet another climb. This one a civilized 6-mile 3,000 foot gradual climb to Silver Pass, through more of the same tedious waterfalls, bizarre rock formations and soaring pines. The only highlight being a surprise snowman, concocted by Orbit, that waited in ambush around a corner.

The accompanying music was the deep bass wump-wump of mating, perhaps partridges? Tried to remember to take photos, as this was the first trip in my lifetime carrying a camera. But remembering at the summit was easy as the views were so magnificent that they demanded camerawork.

The pace picked up over the final 6 miles of the day as we closed the gap between us and Mammoth, our next resupply point. I blew out the jets a bit just to feel what it was like to move faster than 3 mph. Skidded to a halt at Virginia Lake, a Swiss style mountain lake, whose beauty caused Orbit to shout out “Oh my God!” at first sight.

Crossed to the far shore on jumping rocks and set up home. For the first time on the PCT frogs sang me a lullaby.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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