Slept well but woke poorly as the mosquitoes near the stream were early risers. Red was thrashing about and I assumed the airborne vampires were getting to him. But that wasn’t it. He began to speak of yellow maggots raining on him through the night, and large spiders making their way across his body. I am concerned the pressure of passing his 2011 high watermark, which is a couple of days away, may be breaking him down. Later, to give him the benefit of the doubt, I searched for yellow maggots and found none. When confronted with this, he suggested the spiders ate them all. I will keep a loving Eye on him but believe, from my psych 101 class, That once he passes the 1000 mile mark all will return to relative normality.

Left camp early and started the long climb to clouds rest. The story goes that at the 1971 Association of Trail engineers annual meeting, a Yosemite engineer and a PCT engineer were drinking Shirley temples laced with bourbon. After seven too many the PCT guy began aggressively advocating the artistic merits of switchbacks. The Yosemite guy, being from the straight-line school, had never heard of switch backs. Next morning the Yosemite engineer woke up with such an epic hangover that he was blind to its origins. Later in the day, while soaking in a bath, he had the epiphany of the switchback. As he was working on the cloud rest section of trail, he naturally incorporated the concept. I contemplated the evils of Shirley temples as I walked back and forth across the slope of clouds rest trying to gain any altitude whatsoever.

Today was Swiss day. I passed a woman and her son who had taken a wrong turn. We got it straightened out. She was from the French speaking part of Switzerland. As I came down off Cloudrest, I passed a couple having breakfast on a boulder. I commented on their fine location. They asked me to join them.No to food is a sacrilege among through hikers. Always observant to rules, I sat down to a loaf of German bread, cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. They were from basel in the German-speaking region of Switzerland. The conversation ranged wide. He had just run his third marathon in a time of 2:29 fast enough to win the race. I was blown away. 229 is an incredible time for a non coached athlete. We chatted for half an hour and then as is the way of people moving in different directions on the same path we said our goodbyes. I never learned their names.

Pounded the trail down to Taniya Lake and it’s adjacent highway. Tried hitching, but with a coming shuttle, my heart wasn’t in it. Eventually my limo arrived and whisked me back to tuoleme meadows and my reunion with the PCT. There, at the TM store, were the usual gaggle of through hikers. Some known, some not. Went through the hiker box and was able to make up all the shortcomings of my kitchen for the walk to Bridgeport. Even found some of my beloved couscous. Say it twice because it’s so good. Wanted to spend some money so I had lunch at the take out. Scored a world first. My meal Was Hungarian goulash, Colorado chili and New England clam chowder, and a quart of OJ. A new combo. Unfortunately, due to G.I. distress, not a recommendation.

A slow leave, and then back on the PCT as it followed the flow of a river valley carved by glaciers. Took a fine swim in the current browned by my filth. At 6 miles came to a campsite at the pour point of a large waterfall. Too beautiful to pass, we camped. Clouds threatened, which made the sunset explosive. It’s beauty marred by a homicidal mosquitoes. Why must beauty always have a flaw? Buried in my sleeping bag, the flaws hovered searching for a breach, but my defenses held and sleep was mine.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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