July 13, 2013
24 miles
Mile 1273

The sun was late to sink down to the bottom of our valley, so the process was late in starting. Left the river cut and began the inevitable climb. With 4,000 feet to reclaim the trend was obvious. Switchback after switchback brought me to ever thinner air. Finally surfaced on a crest after two hours of effort. Miles of firs and Pines spread out in every direction. Timber or scenery depending on your perspective.

Once up, I stayed up. The path meandering along the ridge until it intersected with a paved road. There a choice. Stay on the PCT and eat out of Ziploc bags or follow the road, an alternative loop, and swing by a restaurant with half pound burgers and 18 kinds of beer on tap. Hmmm? Asphalt walking after forest paths is unpleasant, if for no other reason then it is hard on the joints, but the hitching was unsuccessful, so we walked the miles.

Before we could make our restaurant, the proprietor of a newly built establishment leaned from his porch and shouted “free beer for through hikers.” Is that possible to ignore? The food was excellent as was the Monster Truck show on the tube. Though grave diggers defeat in the final hard to digest. The band of 14-year-olds abusing rock ‘n roll did not fall into the excellent category. Back on the road we attempted to bypass the Lakeshore Resort and it’s 18 flavors but the lure was overwhelming.

Inside, inevitably, sat Track Meet, Veggie, Ole and Halfway, who as a quartet were doing damage to the tap hinges. We sat down to help because that is what friends are for. Throughout the afternoon a return to the trail was discussed several times but never seriously pursued. Pizzas were eaten, phones charged, but mostly t was conversation and beer. Supportive locals bought a number of rounds. Many stopped by to satisfy their curiosity about the motivation to walk 2,600 miles. Many wanted to discuss “wild” a popular book about a woman who walked the PCT. The book is not so popular on the trail itself. The afternoon turned late, the trail talk more serious.

We left the bar. And made it to the porch, where we started in on ice cream. More locals hung out. We promoted the PCT and it’s virtues including unlimited ice cream consumption. A bald eagle circled overhead. Finally two women with a vehicle called our bluffs and hauled us in shifts to the trailhead. There Veggie pulled out a six-pack, but it was only delaying the inevitable. At 8 PM the start bell sounded. We were off with talk of a summit some 5 miles away. Whatever state a through hiker might find himself in, they are capable of a couple of things, if you put them on the PCT. They will turn North, they will hike, they will find a flat spot near water and they will get their eight hours of slumber. Two miles later we were down. A sweet camp spot tripped us up. And down hard we went. Aggressive snoring frightened away the mosquitoes and all was dark for the others. But I read, until the book hit me in the face. The end before the end.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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