Monthly Archives: July 2013

Day 61 – Missing Red Beard and lunch before the storms

July 2, 2013
27 miles today
Mile 1045

Returned to the trail courtesy of Preston who had field work to do in the area. We talked more of Preston’s research. Much of his field research takes place in the winter. Sonora pass is closed seasonally because of snow. How to get there? How about hitch a ride with the Marines in one of their tanks? Fun solutions are better. Speaking of fun, he was once cross country skiing through fox habitat on the lookout for scat. He crested a snowbound ridge and came upon 500 Marines engaged in an epic snowball fight. If only warfare could be so civilized.

Thought of UB on the ride out. Ran into him at the motel. He seemed at his limit mentally and physically and was headed back to San Francisco for a week of rest. The trail had handed him a beating. But like any boxer headed to the corner he would be back for the next round. That you could see in his eyes. Crossing paths with him again before Canada a certainty.

Pretty

Pretty

Ran into Muk Muk at the Sonora Pass trailhead and got caught up. Said our farewells to Tortuga who had Hitched out with us from Bridgeport. And we’re off, sadly and strangely without Red Beard. Starting at a pass always means a climb up and that is how we engaged, Charged with adrenaline but slowed by three days worth of food. Everywhere there were grasshoppers who, when they flew, sounded like baseball cards hitting bicycle spokes on a hot August afternoon.

The terrain continued its trend toward volcanic. Old cinder cones began to appear. This was a good thing as crushed ash makes for soft walking. Of interest today as both of my knees were feeling centarian. Lunch was by a stream, against a rock that had a perfect La-Z-Boy angle. This sky was crystal blue during the appetizers and dark gray by dessert. Within the first post lunch mile the thunder had started and drizzle had commenced. Patches of blue remained and I wanted to race toward them, but the slotted track I was on constantly veered back towards the muck.

Storm over volcano cone

Storm over volcano cone


The thunder crescendos increased and the sky tension built. We raced on to camp. Then a mighty crack of lightning that drained the storm of its enthusiasm. We were scott-free, or so we thought, for the storm seem to reinvigorate the mosquitoes. They returned with hunger.
Home for the night just above the snow patch

Home for the night just above the snow patch


So we kept walking, until a windblown pass high above all. There we made home and watched with pleasure as the slipstream sucked mosquitoes over the edge and hopefully to their doom.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 60 – Ceiling view at the Silver Maple Inn

July 1, 2013
0 miles

Unfamiliar surroundings as I opened my eyes. Where was the sky? Oh yeah I’m in a bed in the Silver Maple Inn. And that above me is what is called a ceiling. And nothing has any particular interest in eating me. Perhaps I shall go dine. And so I did, extracting roughly 3,000 cal from their continental breakfast.

Our Silver Maple corner

Our Silver Maple corner


As always in a town, it was a time of news. Both good and bad. Red Beard received the roughest of all. A good friend had lost his battle against cancer and had but a short time left. Being the man that he is, Red jumped on a bus to Reno, then a flight back to Seattle, to say a proper goodbye. His plan to be gone for a week will put him far behind us. But knowing the speed of red There will be a reunion down the trail at some point.

Spent the morning battling a communication and blog deficit. Had successes but the sand never stopped pouring downward and soon the sun was directly overhead. The plan was to return to the trail in the early afternoon. But a long lunch and a finicky resupply in a store with limited resources pushed the departure time ever back. The store was without couscous and my dinner prospects dimmed. An afternoon thunderstorm and shower further dampened a trail return enthusiasm. Time ticked and a meeting was held. SlacK, Orbit and I concluded that a day of leisure was in order. The cloud lifted and I exhaled.

Ran into our old friend otter and new friend Tortuga, on the street and rebooked our room as group.Then tracked down a fine corner office, encounsed myself, and completed all the requirements of a modern life as the afternoon ran towards evening. Satisfied, with the workdays production and the league standings of the Baltimore Orioles, I was happy to see Preston pull up in his truck with dinner plans in hand.

The evening meal took place in Preston’s Department of Fish and game trailer. The food was a bulking concoction created by Preston that was outstanding In both taste and appearance. Eaten communally on group plates using chips an enormous amount was consumed. The atmosphere was relaxed and old-fashioned, as orbit slack Preston and I took turns telling stories. The highlight was Preston telling of an early climbing accident in Pennsylvania.

Preston, at the time 12, and his older brother Jared who was 16 were free climbing along a cliff. In English, without ropes. Preston was above his brother when he fell. The ground was 80 feet away. Preston had fallen about 4 feet and was picking up speed when he sailed by his brother. Jared took his best shot. He let go of the rock with one hand, and jammed that hand into space and took a grab. That grab seized Preston’s wrist. Gently he placed Preston back onto the rocks and the climb continued. Parents were never told and that was probably for the best. Preston continues to climb but always remembers his closest call for caution.

Dessert was dark chocolate and lobotomy bock. Then to mattress and pillow. My last thought was probably a first for my life. What would it have been like to have had a brother?

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 59 – Man parts at risk & escape from horror lake

June 30, 2013
17 miles today
Mile 1018

Slow to attempt the dreaded exit but the demands of my constitution withdrew choice from the process. My wait caused a rush. Because it was a double, my exposure time was also doubled. They found me quickly. I looked down at the horror. Both testicles were crawling with feeding mosquitoes. Why scream? Slapping would be suicidal. I pushed for all I was worth. Both hands red with mosquito blood from my self imposed spanking. I began to panic and considered a mid-constitution retreat to my tent. Finally the sponge passed. My business done, I fled to my tent to nurse the damage.

A new kind of flowers

A new kind of flowers


Equally slow getting out of camp. The oatmeal from the hiker box was non instant. Thus I had to restart the fire and boil water while the incessant buzz drilled a hole in my head. With no flavoring I masticated the mud like oatmeal mule style. By departure everyone was long gone and I walked alone, except for my groupies trying to lay eggs in my ears. The goal was Sonora pass and a hitch into Bridgeport for resupply.
Looking down at breeding lake

Looking down at breeding lake


I kept moving. What choice was there? And then the blessing of geography. The trail began to climb, and climb some more. The pines were left behind, as well as the water. Deprived of breeding pools the mosquitoes too were soon in the rearview. The ground turned Arid, barren and volcanic. I was thrilled. Eventually the path topped out at just under 11,000 feet and stayed there. All was stunning with snowcapped peaks as far as the eye could digest. I was skipping with joy. Back to crossing snowfields and looking down on all.
Path to freedom away from my oppressors left behind in the Pine Forest below

Path to freedom away from my oppressors left behind in the Pine Forest below

Switchback

Switchback


Started sputtering and bonking so I sat down to a buffet lunch that involved eating everything of edible weight still in the pack. Then a sprint to the pass for the hitch in. The first ride was quick. Pete, a retired fireman and Vietnam vet, was up from the valley to escape the heat and capture fish. He gave us a ride to the 395 juncture for Bridgeport. Along the way he pointed out the Marine Mountain warfare training center, where the Leathernecks practice for North Korea.
Cool pool near lunch spot

Cool pool near lunch spot

Cars sped by as we broiled. Then a bomb went off in Slack and he started jumping up and down screaming a name. A truck locked up its brakes and slid off the road. A new style of hitchhiking I thought but whatever it takes. Turns out the name was Preston, which happened to be the name of the driver, which happened to be Slacks great slack lining buddy. We rode into Bridgeport listening to the excited catch up. The world just keeps shrinking.

Preston

Preston


Showered, and the tub ran black with filth and mosquito corpses. Laundry, and I suspect that water did the same. Had a long chat in the laundry mat with a gentleman from Cameroon. About what I expected in Bridgeport. He explained the government of Cameroon and it was the first African set up that has ever made sense to me. Twelve tribes in Cameroon, each send two representatives to a council of twenty-four that runs the country. A benevolent dictator oversees all, but has no real power other than to replace one rep with another from the same tribe. A model of balance perhaps?

Preston ferried us to Mexican for a feed. There the conversation focused on his work with the Sierra Fox. An animal that only lives above 9000 feet and of which there are only seven left in the world. They have been around North America since the Ice Age. Preston spends the winters setting up camera traps for his PhD work at UC Davis. Despite spending months in the field he has never seen one live. Their problem is global warming. He explained the pros and cons of captive breeding and concluded that it wouldn’t be worth the expense. Dinner was wrapped up by a toast to Orbit for passing her 2011 high watermark. From now on out all will be fresh to her eyes.

Darkness found us soaking in natural hot springs set next to a river with not a care. That would soon change for one of us, but for now all was buzz free bliss.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 58 – One Thousand Miles! (and still a blood bag)

Woke up in the unpleasant company of party guests waiting for breakfast. Each of us isolated in our individual castles, we communicated by shouting. Veggie, the mean guitar player of Tuoleme Meadows and Hitch, a novelist, were there too. Hitch arrived late in the evening wearing a large mosquito head net. She told a good story of blowing a large snot rocket, forgetting about the head net. The resulting mess both grim and hilarious.

Hell Beach at Benson Lake

Hell Beach at Benson Lake


A lake on the run

A lake on the run


A feminine tree

A feminine tree

My morning constitution was shaping up to be a potential tragedy. That kind of exposure to winged vampires was chilling. Except it didn’t happen. First time on the trail without my morning regularity. I blame dinner, which was highly irregular. All of it came from the free hiker box and none of it was couscous which I had run out of. The first course was mashed potatoes, bland and blocking. The second course was hot cocoa, or what I took to be hot cocoa in a clear plastic Ziploc bag. I poured it in the cup and added boiling water. It swelled and expanded, eventually taking on the appearance of a Brown sponge. Everyone had an opinion as to its identity perhaps carnation instant breakfast or protein powder or hot chocolate gone rogue. So I ate it because hunger is the mother of consumption. It did not taste of a food group. At the halfway point I stopped eating as I realized what it was. It was some form of an emergency female contraceptive device. Thus this morning I have a contraception sponge damming my colon waiting to stop procreation. I’m sure.
Escape route from Benson Lake

Escape route from Benson Lake


The rush through clouds of hate to departure. Life is movement. Death is packing. I retreated through the swamp and pushed to higher ground with dreams of escape. It was not to be. All day they probed. I smeared on DEET, which will give me the cancer later in life. It worked with movement. Stopped, they found a way to pump always. Now I have empathy for hamsters. Sooner or later I had to stop for the night, I knew it and they knew it.
A PCT leg under assault

A PCT leg under assault


Thus the day had a rushed feeling to it. Every time I paused to look around or snap a photo, it was snack time. Dreams of a mosquito free pass or lake or anywhere a delusional fantasy. Even the midday swim involved swallowing mosquitoes because you have to surface and breath. So we walked on. I even considered pushing on to the next town Bridgeport through the night though it was another 20 miles on. The scenery was still achingly beautiful. It was just viewed through the prism of hundreds of black dots. The major milestone of 1000 miles should have been a fine celebration. Instead it was a quick snapshot during a panic dance.
1,000 mile marker going north in a very very long state

1,000 mile marker going north in a very very long state


Traditionally, the night brings relief. So we walked in that direction and the miles piled up. Left Yosemite and entered the toiyabe wilderness. The mosquitoes did not respect the boundary. I saw deer everywhere flicking and twisting spasmodically brothers in our abuse. Hope left, and we stopped. The anticipated buffet again. I bent down to fill up water and received a neat line of hypodermic’s across my plumbers crack. I had to eat and that is how I found myself sitting on a log, bathed in the smoke of the fire, shoveling more lifeless mashed potatoes in my mouth under a lifted net and contemplating the nature of insanity. The low point of the trip. Oh for a return to the kindness of the desert where mosquitoes are grilled to death for their cruelty. But when it’s all said and done it still beats 9 to 5.
Trapped blood bag soon to be harvested

Trapped blood bag soon to be harvested


Panic dove into my tent and killed all the infiltrators with non-Buddhist glee. Free from my tormentors I finished someone else’s sojourn in my cocoon with a smugness bordering on ecstasy. 1000 miles indeed.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 57 – Just a blood bag in my forest of Zen

Billy Goat, Red and I

Billy Goat, Red and I


The morning followed it’s normal flow. Pack up and get going before the mosquitoes stirred for breakfast. Because that’s what we were. As we had camped in an unusual bend in the river I had to walk far for my morning constitution. This I did. I found a nice isolated spot, And in the midst of my business a hiker walked by. Apparently my wanderings had drawn me back to the PCT like blood to an artery. I rushed to maintain the shreds of my dignity.
Shapes laid out on granite

Shapes laid out on granite


A heatwave was in the air and the mercury raced upward as the morning wore on. Thus I was happy to enter a flat forest of crowded pine. The shade was magical and the quiet immense. I stopped and listened. Nothing. Even the nearby stream was a silent float. Slowly the birdcalls and insect buzz entered the audio picture. I just stood there and took it all in. My forest of Zen. I tried to keep my focus on the quiet as I followed the trail but as always my mind revolted and wandered off in its own direction.
Trail arc due to water hazard

Trail arc due to water hazard


Climbed down into a canyon to Virginia Creek. Described as a sometimes dangerous Ford, in this low-water year I didn’t even get my feet wet. Caught up with my friends here for lunch and mosquitoes. Then climbed up and out of the canyon along a creek lined with slabs of granite. Then through a series of undulating mini passes that were just right. There was no stopping as the mosquito nation has declared war. Even on the move they were at you. So much beauty but no ability to stop and stare. Imagine being in the Louvre trying to take all the art in but with hundreds of mosquitoes trying to eat you. You get the picture but really you can’t see it.
Mini pass

Mini pass


Fred 2 graduated from Mosquito Academy in a class of 2,785,000. There he learned to identify blood bags, hunt them, extract life force and survive their aggression. He was tight with Fred one, three, four and seven and they made a pact to drain blood together. On their first day out they hovered in a shaded forest as taught. It wasn’t long before a blood bag approached at an incredible speed. Fred 4 in his high pitched drawl said excitedly “let’s do this.” And in they went. Why Fred two hung back, he will never know, but he did. Fred three went first. His approach was good on the long bottom stick mechanisms of the blood bag, through which blood was coursing, but he got tangled up in the matting and crashed to earth. Fred one landed at direct center of the blood bag where they had been taught the organ that pumps lifeblood is located. Tragically the organ was shielded by protective fabric. As Fred one plunged his extractor hopelessly the five pronged killing web of the blood bag smashed him without mercy. Fred seven flew directly into a hole at the front of the round top part of the blood bag never to be seen again. His scream marked his passage into the darkness. Fred two followed Fred four in. He had an instinct, and was willing to bet his life on it. Fred four landed cleanly on the front, top, flat section of the blood bag and plunged his extractor quickly. Quicker still was the five pronged web that killed him as he drank. Such horror. The sound was sickening, but also Fred twos chance. As the webb rested on Fred four. Fred two lightly touched down on it’s back. The blood bag did not notice. Sliding his Excalibur in, Fred two grinned as the nectar of life engorged him. Later, resting on the bottom of a leaf, Fred two wondered “why me to live and the others to their death?” It was a good forest for thought.
Fred two at the scene of his greatest victory

Fred two at the scene of his greatest victory


I scratched the bite on my hand as I climbed Benson pass. The goal was Benson lake on the far side. It was a race with the building thunderstorm making its way in the same direction. I crested the pass at the same time Billygoat arrived in the opposite direction. The conversation was short as the mosquitoes controlled the pass in direct violation of the No mosquitoes above 10,000 feet rule. I was happy to put the pass and it’s storm behind me as I have little luck with lightning. I’ve been knocked off my feet by it, had my house struck by it, and had a friend killed by it.
Canyon to come

Canyon to come


The descent to Benson lake was long and pounding, but also a visual feast. The swamp before the lake was not, but it’s bite toll was worth the sandy beaches and breeze of the lake itself. Had a swim and waited for the others. A ranger showed up and checked my hiking permit, a first on the PCT. The others arrived as Did the mosquitoes en force. Their patient ambush a success. It was a massacre. Soon we were all trapped in our individual cubicles as the murderous hordes circled. The sound of their fabric ramming like raindrops. But soon I was in Italy as a flipped the pages of “the sojourn” oblivious to the wants and needs of my enemy and their blood bag lust.
Meadow trail of excellent flatness

Meadow trail of excellent flatness

Day 56 – Where Red has maggot nightmares and I climb to clouds rest

Slept well but woke poorly as the mosquitoes near the stream were early risers. Red was thrashing about and I assumed the airborne vampires were getting to him. But that wasn’t it. He began to speak of yellow maggots raining on him through the night, and large spiders making their way across his body. I am concerned the pressure of passing his 2011 high watermark, which is a couple of days away, may be breaking him down. Later, to give him the benefit of the doubt, I searched for yellow maggots and found none. When confronted with this, he suggested the spiders ate them all. I will keep a loving Eye on him but believe, from my psych 101 class, That once he passes the 1000 mile mark all will return to relative normality.

Orbit at Taft Point

Orbit at Taft Point


Left camp early and started the long climb to clouds rest. The story goes that at the 1971 Association of Trail engineers annual meeting, a Yosemite engineer and a PCT engineer were drinking Shirley temples laced with bourbon. After seven too many the PCT guy began aggressively advocating the artistic merits of switchbacks. The Yosemite guy, being from the straight-line school, had never heard of switch backs. Next morning the Yosemite engineer woke up with such an epic hangover that he was blind to its origins. Later in the day, while soaking in a bath, he had the epiphany of the switchback. As he was working on the cloud rest section of trail, he naturally incorporated the concept. I contemplated the evils of Shirley temples as I walked back and forth across the slope of clouds rest trying to gain any altitude whatsoever.

Today was Swiss day. I passed a woman and her son who had taken a wrong turn. We got it straightened out. She was from the French speaking part of Switzerland. As I came down off Cloudrest, I passed a couple having breakfast on a boulder. I commented on their fine location. They asked me to join them.No to food is a sacrilege among through hikers. Always observant to rules, I sat down to a loaf of German bread, cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. They were from basel in the German-speaking region of Switzerland. The conversation ranged wide. He had just run his third marathon in a time of 2:29 fast enough to win the race. I was blown away. 229 is an incredible time for a non coached athlete. We chatted for half an hour and then as is the way of people moving in different directions on the same path we said our goodbyes. I never learned their names.

JAT or just another trail

JAT or just another trail


Pounded the trail down to Taniya Lake and it’s adjacent highway. Tried hitching, but with a coming shuttle, my heart wasn’t in it. Eventually my limo arrived and whisked me back to tuoleme meadows and my reunion with the PCT. There, at the TM store, were the usual gaggle of through hikers. Some known, some not. Went through the hiker box and was able to make up all the shortcomings of my kitchen for the walk to Bridgeport. Even found some of my beloved couscous. Say it twice because it’s so good. Wanted to spend some money so I had lunch at the take out. Scored a world first. My meal Was Hungarian goulash, Colorado chili and New England clam chowder, and a quart of OJ. A new combo. Unfortunately, due to G.I. distress, not a recommendation.

A slow leave, and then back on the PCT as it followed the flow of a river valley carved by glaciers. Took a fine swim in the current browned by my filth. At 6 miles came to a campsite at the pour point of a large waterfall. Too beautiful to pass, we camped. Clouds threatened, which made the sunset explosive. It’s beauty marred by a homicidal mosquitoes. Why must beauty always have a flaw? Buried in my sleeping bag, the flaws hovered searching for a breach, but my defenses held and sleep was mine.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 55 – Half Dome awe and a bedroom in the pines

Good morning, Taft Point, sitting on a 1500 foot fall

Good morning, Taft Point, sitting on a 1500 foot fall


An outstanding day. Proper tea for breakfast and then a shift back to the slacklLine. All of Taft Point was ours to soak up sun and take down oatmeal. Deer wondered about as people walked across a thin strap. Orbit and Red got in on the action by rigging up a harness that allowed them to slide across the chasm while seated under the line. I had my fatherhood to consider and passed. Instead I played tour guide to the various folks who began to wander in. Their reactions priceless when they first rounded the bend and saw Slack or Max out on the line. One Irish lady said in a thick Dublin accent “Oh Christ, will you look at the balls on that one!” I couldn’t agree more.
Red Beard doing his thing

Red Beard doing his thing

Orbit trying out slack line

Orbit trying out slack line


Showtime over, we packed up our gear and took down the line. Elliot logged the 80 pound gear bag the mile back up the hill as is the Marine mentality. We carpooled back down to the valley floor for sandwiches and farewells. Back to four we decided to continue up the Yosemite Valley toward the Tuoleme Meadows and the PCT rather than try the hitchhiking route.

Our goal was half Dome and beyond. This is a very popular hiking route in Yosemite. Every day 400 permits to climb half Dome’s steel cable staircase are issued. The hike is so popular up to Nevada Falls (at the 3 mile point of the 8 mile hike to Half Dome) that the trail is actually paved. The juxtaposition of my grubbiness and speed to the pristine condition of the hikers around me was fun to experience. The trail climbed straight up the river valley, passing through a short tunnel then emerged into the mist trail.

Nevada Falls although both viewers have

Nevada Falls although both viewers have ADD


There the pounding of Nevada Falls coated hikers in an air-conditioned fine spray. Then straight up a stone staircase to the plateau above Nevada Falls. The fine engineers of Yosemite knew that the straightest line between two points was the fastest way to get there. They shared none of their PCT brethren’s affection for switchbacks.

A fine swim in a deep pool above the falls capped that part of the hike and reawakened the senses. All the while battling aggressive, engorged squirrels intent on reading our snack bags. Read the sad, cautionary tale of a teenager who had been swept over the Nevada Falls on June 1, and whose body had yet to be found. More straight stair climbing brought us above yet another falls and then a straight march to the trail juncture for Half Dome. As bears were known to roam here we piled our packs on top of a very large boulder, perhaps out of their reach.

Half Dome with moon and steel cable in view

Half Dome with moon and steel cable in view


Unburdened, and with climbing papers of dubious quality, we flew the 2 miles up Half Dome.The path morphed more from a wide thoroughfare to a narrow stone staircase and finally the famous steel cable route. The last family of four on the mountain were just exiting the cable route as we arrived. They graciously turned the keys to the dome over to us. With leftover gloves we scampered up. The climb up looks tough and it is tough. Every year there are fatalities from falls and lightning strikes. I was impressed with the wide variety of skills and capabilities that make the climb every day.
The steel cable route but with picture turned vertically

The steel cable route but with picture turned vertically


On top, a giant boulder playground to run about. But first a rotating sit down. It took quite a while to soak in the 360° of awe. Such a sweep of mountains. I strolled through the cairn towers of rocks that commemorated the dead ancestors of climbers. Added a few myself. Then a nap on a slope that overlooked the Yosemite Valley. But all good things run out of time. As the sun went down so did we. Ass first or face first is the choice. Ass first is the bigger thrill, I’ll leave it to the imagination which we chose.
On top of Half Dome, me NOT

On top of Half Dome, me NOT


On solid ground we raced the dark back to rescue our packs. Reburdened we took off in the moonlight in search of water, rumored to be scarce along this trail. After a mile the rumors proved misleading. Flatness abounded amongst the pines for a bedroom, couscous on someone’s leftover fire, and to sleep in record time, satisfied with a day well played.

Taft Point sunset

Taft Point sunset


Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 54 – What’s 1,500 feet among friends?

Trapped

Trapped

Awoke to grayness and rain that still hung around unwanted like a headache. Struggled to leave shelter but an exit into the elements is eventually mandatory. Packed away damp and headed for the post office/breakfast. The breakfast shack opened its doors first And I had a bland, overpriced breakfast saved by a large bottle of fiery Thai cock sauce. As the postmaster slumbered I ran into Billy Goat, a through-hiker with a full gray beard, he has hiked the PCT more times than anybody bothers to count. Well-known and easily recognizable, he is quite the celebrity and hiking circles.
Red Beard with green boa received in care package

Red Beard with green boa received in care package


Finally the window rose to package world and the USPS came through once again. Both packages were there and soon we were stuffing brownies and caramels down our gullet in the drizzle. Thanks Cirina. Finished the bounce box shuffle in record time as plans were finalized around me. Then my bounce box began its journey to Sierra city and I down the Yosemite Valley. Two options ride or walk. The walk was 20+ miles, the ride 45 minutes. Always ride, when you don’t have to walk, especially when 2600 miles of footwork shadows you. Thumbs out, a short interlude, and a ride all the way into the valley from a couple of fellow hiker trash.

The entry into Yosemite Valley is an experience rather than a sight. Immensity, monster falls, sheerness and tourists, tourist everywhere. The combination is reasonable due to the charisma. Our destination was Camp Four also known as Climbers Central. There we found Max, Slack’s friend who had driven down from San Francisco, loaded with slack line gear. Slack lining is the modern cousin of tight rope walking. The difference is slack lining involves walking on a 1 to 2 inch strap rather than a rope. Some slack lines were rigged up in Camp Four and us newbies gave it a shot. I was quickly convinced that I did not, nor would ever, possess the requisite balance.

A plan cracked the egg. The five of us piled in Max’s Prius hybrid and climbed 4000 feet above the valley floor to Taft’s Point. A short hike brought us to the lookout and a sheer drop. There Slack and Max began the process of improvising a slack line short of a variety of required bits and pieces. The slack line was minimalized to functionality. Taking advantage of pre-existing bolts the slack line stretched 100 feet between two rock juts on the same cliff. From fall contact point to slack line was 1500 feet in altitude.

Alternative route for the PCT as Slack walks on with backpack

Alternative route for the PCT as Slack walks on with backpack


The crowd that gathered was small due to the lateness of the day. The mood was similar to NASCAR with its risk/destruction fascination. My heart raced as Max and Slack rigged the line without safety harnesses. Standing inches from the edge, they went about their business, oblivious to doom. I practiced wincing at a safe distance.
Slack in Shiva dance

Slack in Shiva dance

The river below

The river below

Nap time

Nap time

The first step out onto the line and Slack was home again. From my valley experience, I understood the challenge and was that much more impressed. Eyes forward for scale, hands out and up in a Shiva dance, Slack made his way across, then a 180° turn and back again. The most non-dangerous, dangerous looking thing I’ve ever seen. Also it was very interesting from a sport angle. There was nothing aggressive about it, it was almost feminine in its beauty. As comfort levels improved, tricks appeared. Eventually Slack took a purposeful dive to check his safety harness. It held, as the alternative was unthinkable. (Some slack liners enjoy free soloing without the safety harness. To each his own). Back and forth went Slack and Max, the latter trying out a horizontal plank for giggles.

Eventually the sun took a dive and we tried to pick out the headlamps of the climbers making their way up El Capitan on the other side of the valley. The goal: To beat 24 hours, though the record is two hours five minutes, which is analogous to the marathon record. Found a spot back in the trees to savor civilization as Max is a tea importer. There, around the fire, we were treated to a Chinese tea tasting. Cup, after sample cup, as I tried to detect the highlighted subtleties. It was the obvious ending to an unusual day.

Slack was on top of the world, as not only had he indulged in his passion, but also his twin brother Elliot had brought a reunion. Recently returned from a stint in Afghanistan, and still in the Marines, they had not embraced in over a year. Having driven from Washington, Elliott was obviously in pain as he watched his brother over the chasm and wondered just how truncated the reunion would be.

The conversation centered around IED explosives and tea which blended well. Sleep came easy as the rivers of China coursed through my veins. And through the night the slack line waited in anticipation of the mornings efforts.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 53 – Rainbows in the muck and music for Fumiko (sort of )

June 24. 2013
21 miles today
Mile 942

The suspicious clouds from the day before confirmed their ill intent by dumping rain and snow on us through the night. Poked my head out of my tent and saw that the wind had turned the weather horizontal. I pulled my head back in. Everything can wait in such times. I wrote three days worth of blog entries until the thing that can’t wait couldn’t anymore. Out into it.

The weather let up enough to break down camp. All my warm clothes put away as they must stay dry for the evenings. Normal hiking clothes with rain pants and jacket where the wardrobe of the day. Move faster to warm faster. Had some cold oatmeal to warm an empty colon and was off. Right off a sweet kiss from mother nature in the form of a low rainbow over our lake of the night. I smiled, then winced at the slap in the face as the horizontal rain returned. Outside my tent it stung.

Departure rainbow

Departure rainbow


And so it went throughout the day. Rain, sleet or snow depending on your altitude. Shoes soaked, but the rest of me relatively warm and dry. All that needed to be was stuffed in a giant garbage bag inside my pack and thus also stayed dry. Was actually pretty fun cheating the weather of its abuse. While crossing a log bridge over a river she proved her cunning. Waiting until I was far enough out she sent a mighty gust of wind. I dropped to my knees to avoid going into the drink. The gust died out and I made a run for it. The follow up gust blew me off the bridge at the midpoint. Luckily there was a support column halfway which I landed on rather then a swim. Point mother nature.
Donahue Pass in summer

Donahue Pass in summer


Ran into Double Sprainbow and Olie (?), two through-hikers who dropped off the trail at Lonepine to get hitched. Now knotted, this storm was part of their honeymoon.

Climbed up over 12,000 feet to Donahue pass, the gateway into Yosemite. Turned and said my farewell to The Ansel Adams wilderness. The weather at this altitude had murderous intentions and I did not linger. My destination was a warmer meadow some 3000 feet down where my picnic awaited.

As I flew down through the slop I came eye to eye with a four point buck. He won the stare down as the devil was on my tail and patience was short.

Crossed paths with multiple southbound hikers in various states of preparedness for what was to come. Came upon a group of sullen teenagers slogging upward. I smiled inwardly remembering my time working at Outward Bound. I guessed these kids were three or four days out from their attitude. After the adrenaline had worn off but before the toughening and Esprit de Corps kicked in.

Planed out at the meadow. The weather hung around. Lunch was damp tortilla, Swiss cheese and sausage burritos with suicidal mozzies joining the downward passage. Delicious! Got to thinking about why toilet bowl water spins in different directions above and below the equator. Anything to get my head out of the weather. The rest of the hike involved a long, flat, beautiful glide down the Lionel Canyon Meadows. The serpentine River accompanied by every step and provided the soundtrack. After 10 miles or so i dumped into Tuoleme Meadows And it’s seasonal civilization.

Some PCT trivia. This year 1000 through hiking permits were pulled. Probably 700 to 800 hikers are actually on the trail. If historical averages hold, probably 400 to 500 will complete the entire 2660 miles on foot. It is a record number of hikers.

Arrived at the TM store and finally caught up with Orbit, Red Beard and Slack. The store had closed 30 minutes earlier so I missed picking up my bounce box and devastatingly the fresh brownies that Cirina had overnighted. Breakfast it is. To make up for it, Red had bought me a cheeseburger and lovingly wrapped it in his sleeping bag To keep it warm. Compassion is something Red has in spades. Watch him in action and that is obvious. Washed the burger down with one of Orbits beers and all was right with the world.

Home was a campground behind the store. Had the good fortune to find a campsite with warm coals in the fire pit and a supply of wood Eager to burn. Couscous as a burger chaser. And then veggie, a through hiker, wandered over with his guitar and played some StorySongs. Even played Rockytop which was Fumiko’s favorite until Justin Bieber came along. Fell asleep in my tent still being serenaded by music played as it should be.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 52 – Tent Cities & Mountain Overseers

June 23, 2013
15 miles today
921 miles total

Slow to rise from the darkness of my loft, but one of Slack’s mammoth Mammoth breakfasts demanded. Our town departures are like trudging up molasses mountain, slow and nonprogressive. This one was no different. It is tough to Leave the soft and loving embrace of civilization.

At 11 AM the new group arrived and we took that as our cue to depart for the mountains. We made it as far as the coffee shop, two blocks away. After stimulus and more button pushing we were off. To the hills, or the mammoth version of Schatz bakery, whichever came first. After a couple of bear claws, we committed to the bus stop, though some argued for lunch.

Devils Post Pile

Devils Post Pile


Public transport delivered us once again to Red’s meadow where we rejoined the flow of the river PCT. Heavy packs and gallons of ice cream slowed the initial progress. I passed the Devils Post Pile, which reminded me of rock french fries stuck together that were one by one peeling off. Soon there came a fork in the road. The JMT (John Muir Trail) and the PCT split for a while before rejoining. The JMT is harder and more stunning. Stunning every time.
Blow down from distance

Blow down from distance


The pace picked up as the miles piled on and the town lethargy slipped away. I wound past lakes and under mountains filled with snowy crags and cathedral spires. The weather was obviously going south as the clouds built around the mountains. So the hurry was on to reach camp. But care was required. Around every water point swarms of zombie mosquitoes lurked. I knew from World War Z that if I was quiet and moved steadily I could slip past unmolested. But if I lingered or made a noise, blood would be drawn. I lost about a pint due to clumsiness.
Mountain Overseer

Mountain Overseer

Camp was around a dramatic lake guarded by a mountain overseer. The lake was crowded with campers and all but the very last campsite were occupied. The last site however, so hard to get to, was the very best. We crowded our tents onto the only flat spot and set up shop. Tonight was a super moon, When the moon is closest to earth. It teased us with light for sometime before making its conversation stopping, grand entrance over the lip of a mountain. The clouds around it returned to daylight with illumination. When the moon was fully up, I went fully down.
Good night Overseer

Good night Overseer

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!