Monthly Archives: July 2013

Day 51 – TV, Film and Jacuzzi’s

June 22, 2013
0 miles

Waiting for laundry and ESPN to say anything of interest

Waiting for laundry and ESPN to say anything of interest


Slack, our culinary whiz, whipped up a communal breakfast. Fast broken. Dessert was ice cream, the familiar through-hiker staple. This was followed by the couch and TV’s half-hearted attempts at entertainment. Until the locks were removed from the true draw a Jacuzzi soak. And so the morning became the afternoon.

One block away, within range of walking on a true zero day, lay a cinema. World War Z was playing at a matinee. Zombie movies have zero appeal but the Washington Post convinced me to give it a try. Sat down in the dark and relaxed for about two minutes of credits. Remember my speed of life has been 3 mph for some time now. There’s the rock, here it comes, there it goes. Suddenly here comes Hollywood at 103 mph. Crash, bang, whoa! And hold on. It was a fun ride but exhausting. And the film had some giant plot holes, but with suspension of disbelief, I was extremely entertained.

Stumbled back home a bit stunned. Returned to the race against correspondence, until I learned that cuddles, a PCT hiker, was giving one of his cello concerts a block away. Cuddles is giving a series of 25 cello performances with his 298 year old Cello, along the PCT as he makes his way to Canada. His talent is well known among hikers and I had been hoping to catch one of his concerts. Back off the couch, back on my feet, and into a nostalgic church pew.

As the music poured over me I realized that cello music arrived at just the right speed. That composers knew a hell of a lot more about the PCT than Hollywood Ever wood. Still Hollywood is trying. A movie about the PCT starring Reese Witherspoon is in production as I write. Agreement is universal that popularizing the PCT will overwhelm its resources, but such is the American Way. A number of through-hikers were in attendance and a group of them had heard about our sugar shack. They were interested in taking over our lease when we departed. When the applause died down they accompanied us back home.

What else but a party ensued. Low key and relaxed, the night passed with wine, music and what else, ice cream. The day and party ended at the same hour. Residents that last night, Red Beard, Slack, Orbit, Katie, Otter and Guino, who is probably the most colorful character on the trail in 2013.

Guino

Guino

As the others slumbered I caught up on my writing until unconsciousness and satisfaction collided.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 50 – Rock Jambalaya, National Naked Hiking Day – Oh My!

June 21, 2013
15 miles today
906 miles total

Explain this one

Explain this one


Awoke to cold sunshine and a warm fire. The lure of a town destination sped my departure. It was resupply time, which was obvious as I put my pack on. No food equals a happy back. Left camp and started down a chaotic valley. At some recent point the front of a mountain had sheared off and collapsed onto the valley floor. The result was rock jambalaya. Must’ve been quite a show.

Took stock of 50 days on the trail and decided to put in an order for 50 more. Quite the lifestyle. Today was national naked hiking day. Probably the most noncommercial, non-corrupted holiday on the American calendar. What can you market to a naked hiker? As I passed various naked hikers they seemed to be moving quickly. It was cold. Sorry, no photos.

The trail rolled on for a while and then decided to stay high in the Pines. Came upon a six point buck and had a sociable stare down at 50 feet. Both of us lost interest at about the same time and moved on. Eventually the path switchback dropped down through a wasteland that was part fire burn and part trees Snapped off at the midpoint. I learned later the sequence. 11 years ago there was a fire that weakened the forest. A year and a half passed, and a tremendous wind storm passed through. It was similar to a tornado without the cone. Wind microbursts of 180 mph were recorded. That violence was the tree snapper. The PCT became a chain sawed tunnel through a wasteland of downed trees.

Blowdown

Blowdown


Arrived at Reds Meadow, a well-known pack station. Here in 1971 Richard Nixon planed to build the Sierra freeway as a crossover point through the Sierras. Of all people, Gov. Ronald Reagan showed up for a horse ride, fell in love with the place, and subsequently led the victorious fight against construction. Kudos to Mr. Reagan on that one.
Fire and blowdown

Fire and blowdown


Ordered my chocolate shake and sat down in the shade. Tragedy interrupted affairs rudely, as is its nature, when Slack learned that his Australian friend, Luke, had died base jumping in Moab, Utah. He took it hard. Sudden cell phone coverage, after days or weeks without, always brings an avalanche of news. You just never know what kind.

A hitch brought us to downtown Mammoth Lakes. A new plan was hatched. Instead of Motel Six, why not try to rent an off-season ski condo. So while everyone waited in front of Vons, I walked into a real estate office and stated my proposal. Of course the agent there, Jess, owned a condo in Kiana resorts, a somewhat defunct development some 25 minutes north of me in Costa Rica. We hit it off as we discussed folks we knew in common. She called her friend, and soon after we were the two night owners of a condo, a block away, that slept seven. All the amenities and a Jacuzzi for less than the drab and mundane motel anonymous.

Home sweet home accomplished, it was errand time. Food and gear were restocked. Repairs made. Stomach occupied by a burrito that measured 6″ x 10″ taste irrelevant. Residents for the night, Blast (myself), Slack, Orbit, Red Beard, Drop Biscuit and Lorax. All was in order for tomorrow’s complete and total feet up zero. As my head hit the pillow and my backside the mattress, I marveled at the wonder of a bed. But not for long, as I was gone.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 49 – Warm fire, hot oatmeal, obese Marmot, mating partridges

June 20. 2013
27 miles today
892 miles total

As the bear failed to make a return engagement I was able to sleep in. My start slowed further by the fact that Orbit had built a fire. Tearing oneself away from a warm fire on a cold morning to climb a pass requires a buildup of willpower that needs time. Even tried hot oatmeal, but change can be dangerous. Will stay with my precedent of 48 days of cold oatmeal.

Pass view

Pass view


Having left the aptly named valley of evolution I climbed Selden Pass. Sometimes the biorhythms are humming and today was one of those days. I climbed alone and make good time. The path wound upward twisting with the course of the water that carved the valley, the glaciers that formed it long departed. I would force myself to stop often and absorb the beauty around, especially the waterfalls, but a curious physiological sensation occurs every time I stop. Blood seems to collect in the legs making re-hiking difficult for a couple of minutes. It is easier to simply maintain a paced chug up the hill. I crested the pass and had it to myself, a twirl of vision and then, what to do but go down.
Spilled milk

Spilled milk


The valley down-flowed with lakes and waterfalls. Bookcasing the water were massive granite slabs that kept sunrises late and sunsets early. The lower I went, the more dramatic it became. Adjectives begin to fail. As they say 1000 words and photos wouldn’t begin to capture it. Take a hike there and see for yourselves.
Picture of 100 words

Picture of 100 words


Altitude called and I received a lashing of switchbacks. Then an unusual section that traversed a high, flat plain through thick pine forest. The path was straight and direct, which is very unlike the PCT. It reminded me of the Appalachian Trail. The hiking was soft and smooth. I grew complacent. The hammer blow was sudden and brutal. The High plains ended and a freefall of 100 switchbacks ensued. At the bottom, just add water to knee cartilage and you have Jell-O for lunch.

On the way down, I ran into Story Time, the vanguard of the southbound stone boners, a group of individuals who occasionally skip ahead and return south dispensing medical agriculture to all those in need. The trail swims with hiking characters.

Lunch is what I did at the bottom. Found a nice boulder in the lee of a bridge and stuffed my face to the background of crashing water. The fact that I had planned my food well for seven days, i.e. exactly what I needed with no leftovers or shortages, brought me pleasure. The biting no see ums did not.

Obese Marmot sunning

Obese Marmot sunning


Post lunch was yet another climb. This one a civilized 6-mile 3,000 foot gradual climb to Silver Pass, through more of the same tedious waterfalls, bizarre rock formations and soaring pines. The only highlight being a surprise snowman, concocted by Orbit, that waited in ambush around a corner.

The accompanying music was the deep bass wump-wump of mating, perhaps partridges? Tried to remember to take photos, as this was the first trip in my lifetime carrying a camera. But remembering at the summit was easy as the views were so magnificent that they demanded camerawork.

The pace picked up over the final 6 miles of the day as we closed the gap between us and Mammoth, our next resupply point. I blew out the jets a bit just to feel what it was like to move faster than 3 mph. Skidded to a halt at Virginia Lake, a Swiss style mountain lake, whose beauty caused Orbit to shout out “Oh my God!” at first sight.

Virginia Lake

Virginia Lake


Crossed to the far shore on jumping rocks and set up home. For the first time on the PCT frogs sang me a lullaby.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!

Day 48 – Sun-kissed morning and naked hikers

Awoke to intense light. Felt like a dream I couldn’t escape from, no matter how I shifted. Turns out the door to the hive hut has a 16″ x 16″ window, and I had chosen to sleep where the
morning sun poured through that window and focused on my head. Thus anointed I had no choice but to arise.

Valley goal

Valley goal


Spoke with Drop Biscuit who was taking the ESPN challenge. Translated every Sierra pass naked. All so far for her photo documented, worthy and honorable goal.
Water on the move

Water on the move


Headed down from the pass quickly as all the water sources were frozen and I was thirsty. Lost the race to warmth and had to layer up as the wind was sharp and cut deep. The descent today was incredibly pleasant. It was inconceivably long, about 20 miles, and therefore easy because it was so gradual. Also it was a reverse mirror recreation of yesterday’s ascent. Like watching a great movie from a whole new angle. Finally, whoever created all this had the good sense to install a fissure in the Earth’s crust that allowed hot water to make its way to the surface right at the end of the descent.
Trail cut

Trail cut


Never one to pass up hot springs, I along with Orbit, Slack and Red, made the mile and a half detour off the PCT. The springs were earned as we had to cross a fairly dicey river twice to get to them. On my first crossing I was actually spun 360° by the current, but managed to stay on my feet throughout the entire dance. Caught a small garter snake as I exited the river with frozen feet.
Fairytale trail

Fairytale trail


The springs were divine. Perfectly deep and hot, slightly sulphery and floored with fine mud. The sensation of deeply cooked water passing up through one’s toes must be imagined. My reluctance to break my bond with the hot springs was painful. A return through the ice river and a steep climb returned us to the PCT. Then payment for the days descent, as a series of violent switchbacks returned us to altitude.
Muir Pass and Me

Muir Pass and Me

Muir Pass

Muir Pass


Hunger had the upper hand as I arrived at our lakeside campsite. A large bear was running amok charging campsites, but I was too tired to worry about anything but couscous. Fortunately James, a newly minted paramedic, paid a visit with three Freshly caught trout in hand. Diet supplemented I was content as I, as well as the bear, retired from the days activities.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!