September 2, 2013
40 miles
mile 2640

Up at first light with a stomach well rested. Began the climb to Cutthroat Pass with the scent of the border strong in my nose. The day was grey to begin, but an unusual reason for it appeared with elevation. A massive inversion was presenting. Basically when the sky falls into the valleys. Soon we were observing mountains herding cotton. Most of our morning was spent jumping into, swimming through and climbing out of this cloud pool. Great fun.

Made our way through the Labor Day crowds for the first 10 miles then the PCT returned to a solo pursuit. The jagged cascades continued their show and I began to contemplate the end of all this. It will be okay. I am wore out and ready for a rest. A new lament has entered the picture. My heels have begun cracking. Each heel strike painful. A bed and hot tub in Manning Park (the end,end of the trail) pull me.



20 miles by 1 o’clock. A good time for lunch at the pass I happened to be on. A quick chat with Orbit and she is off, practicing for a speed record whose seed has already been planted in her consciousness. Joined at lunch by Picks Up Stones. No water to be had there so looking forward to streams on the descent. Not to be, as the trail turned upward to an endless procession of climbing switchbacks to yet another pass 1,000 feet higher. To me, and semantics, this renders the first pass a non-pass. More of a lull before the true pass. No water on the way up. At the top I learned it was another two miles to a spring. What to do but pop in a suck pebble and make tracks.

A spring so cold you can’t guzzle. I loaded up, as the literature claims this is the last water for 26 miles. Began the slow descent to Harts Pass along exposed ridgelines. Ran into a guy showing his girlfriend where he had killed a deer last year. A different kind of flowers. At 30 miles arrived at the Harts Pass host cottage. Had a good chat with the caretaker as he doled out leftover trail magic. Learned that Orbit was 15 minutes ahead. Then he spoke of the difficulty southbounders face starting early in the season. Mainly this is due to US border restrictions. Northbound is relatively straightforward. Apply to the Canadians for a free border entry permit. Carry your passport and walk into Canada. Southbound is a different ball of fish. You can’t enter the US from Canada on the PCT. Thus southbounders must hike the 30 miles from Harts Pass to the border, touch it, and turn around and come back. In a big snow year your imagination will explain the difficulties.

Stream after stream did I cross until I gave up and dumped the extra two liters I was carrying. So much for the dry stretch. Climbed high within range of a fire observation tower. Picked up a Native American radio station for a new perspective.
Cruising along charting a sunset so strong that I couldn’t tell if it was backlighting clouds or mountains. One last climb and then down the Devils Backbone in the dark. A distant glow a magnet for the double dinner I planned to cook. The familiar Blaster was set out at Shaw creek. Took care of water collection and soon couscous and ramen were on the boil. Entertainment was the back and forth of the stories of the day. Old-fashioned and superior to current methods.

Set up my tent and made my bed. The realization a whammy. The last time.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!