August 24, 2013
30 miles
Mile 2343
A dark day before natural dark. But not at the start. Dark days rarely are. Emerged from my tent to find my neighbor was Babyface. He was sharing the path with Dixie. I had met Babyface way back at the KOA Campground in Southern California. I hadn’t laid eyes on him since the Anderson’s. Apparently they had been taking their time and had realized in Sierra City that the storms of winter were approaching. Not wanting to get caught short of the border they had flip-flopped. Which means that they had gone up to the Canadian border and we’re now making their way south back to Sierra City. The chances of an early winter storm reducing with each step. We got caught up and then said goodbye for good by turning in opposite directions.
Llamas dreaming of the Altiplano
Into the fog I go
The early part of the hike was hard going. I was hungry because there had been no dinner. I was sleepy because there had been little sleep. Both conquerable. The bigger challenge was a mishap hangover from the night of meandering. At one point I had twisted my ankle. What became apparent early on in the mornings hike is that I had also sprained a tendon along that ankle. Each step delivered a measure of hostility. Perhaps I should consider limiting night hiking. Came to a river. Rock hopping across I slipped and went in up to my knees. Wet shoes are not a passion of mine. Just as they dried I came to a stream. In again. Not to be my day.
Ranier in summer wear
Lunch spot
The only solace was Mount Rainier playing peekaboo with the clouds. Limped into lunch in a foul humor. Lay down by Dewey Lake and tried to rebound. Fueled up and stretched lunch out as long as possible. Had only managed 16 miles and it was already 2:30. Orbit was sympathetic but couldn’t walk for me. What to do but make small steps towards Canada.
Avalanche route
Climbed past grazing llamas and patches of huckleberries. The crowds thickened as a highway was nearby. The average American walks 300 yards a day so credit to these folks. Missed a turn and took a long loop trail to get back to the PCT. What the hell is going on with my navigational skills? Consolation was the loop trail went up close and personal with rainier. Rejoined the PCT which went blessedly flat for a while. Passed a wedding shoot with the bride wearing a gown, hiking boots and a pack. Then a parking lot jammed with cars. Where were their occupants? Crested a plateau to the answer. I found them wall-to-wall around a small lake. Quite the fiesta.
Ranier in cloud symphony
Climbed yet again to a break in the mountains where Orbit waited with an orange she had found in an ice chest. Her detective skills impressive. Fruit on the trail is worthy of a dancing jig. Higher still. The air turned cold and the fog closed in. Wind blew condensed mist out of isolated trees for a private mini rainstorm. It was all very atmospheric, but my mood darkened. The tendon was knotting up. I slowed to a shuffle. The last 2 miles eternal. Finally big crow basin spring and a camp I was too wiped out to appreciate. Thirty earned miles but little optimism for tomorrow. A quiet dinner as we shared camp with another sleeping camper. Then to bed early with thoughts of sobering implications.
Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde
If you’d like to help out and donate, please click here!